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Over the past fifteen years a powerfully charged drama has unfolded
in New York's Broadway venues and spread to the opera houses and ballet
productions of major cities across the country. Its characters include
angry college students, aging rock stars, flamboyant B-movie queens,
society matrons, and sophisticated fashion designers. You can't buy
tickets for this production, but you might catch a glimpse of it while
driving in Bethesda on particular Saturday afternoons. If you're lucky,
Compassion Over Killing (COK), an animal rights civil disobedience
group, will be picketing Miller's Furs, their enemy in the fight
against fur. These impassioned activists see the fur trade as nothing
less than wholesale, commercialized murder, and will go to great
lengths to get their point across. Such enthusiasm may do them in, as
COK's often divisive rhetoric and tacit endorsement of vandalism
threaten to alienate the very people it needs to reach in order to be
successful.
The animal rights idealogy crystallized with the publication of
philosophy professor's exploration of the way humans use and abuse
other animals. Animal Liberation argued that animals have an intrinsic
worth in themselves and deserve to exist on their own terms, not just
as means to human ends. By 1985, ten years after Peter Singer's
watershed treatise was first published, dozens of animal rights groups
had sprung up and were starting to savor their first successes. In 1994
Paul Shapiro, then a student at Georgetown Day School, didn't feel
these non-profits were agitating aggressively enough for the cause. He
founded Compassion Over Killing to mobilize animal rights activists in
the Washington metropolitan area and "throw animal exploiters out of
business." Since then, COK has expanded to over 300 members with
chapters across the country, including one at American University,
which formed in the fall of 1996. COK organizes protests as a primary
activity of the group, although some chapters may choose to expand into
other areas if they wish.
COK's focus on direct-action protests and demonstrations is just
one way that the animal rights movement has mobilized to end the fur
trade. The larger animal rights organizations have conducted attention
grabbing media blitzes with the help of stars like Paul McCartney,
Melissa Etheridge, Rikki Lake, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington.
Lobbying efforts by animal advocacy groups have resulted in trapping
restrictions in numerous states and an end to federal fur industry
subsidies. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) has
persuaded several fashion designers including Calvin Klein and Donna
Karan to stop using fur in their clothing lines. In addition, anti-fur
concerts, videos, compact discs, t-shirts, drag revues and award
ceremonies have been used by animal rights groups to advance their
cause.
Each side of the conflict over fur coats has an entirely different
way of conceptualizing and talking about the issue. Animal rights
groups bluntly describe fur as "dead...animal parts" and emphasize that
animals are killed to produce a fur garment. Those involved in the fur
industry consistently use agricultural metaphors and talk of a yearly
"crop of fur" that must be "harvested." Manny Miller, the owner of
Miller's Furs, refused to describe his business in terms of the
individual animals; "I don't sell animals. I sell finished products. I
sell fur coats." These linguistic differences extend to the manner in
which both sides frame the debate over fur. COK refers to the industry
in criminal terms; fur is directly equated with murder and those
involved in the industry are labeled killers. Industry groups like the
Fur Information Council of America (FICA) always describes fur garments
as objects and clothing; it is "the ultimate cold weather fabric" that
is "your fashion choice."
On Saturday, April 12th, Compassion Over Killing demonstrated
outside the White House, protesting the Clinton administration's
opposition to a European Community ban on the importation of fur coats
made from animals caught in the wild. In addition, the demonstration
called for the release of several Animal Liberation Front (ALF) members
imprisoned for vandalizing property and liberating animals from
research labs and factory farms. Several dozen high school and college
students turned out for the event, but the protest attracted a handful
of thirtysomethings and an elderly woman as well. Most of the young
people there seemed to dress in a similar style; baggy pants, piercings
and t-shirts advertising obscure "hard-core" rock bands adorned most of
the activists. The organizers of the protest provided more than enough
signs for everyone to carry. Each sign had a slogan stenciled on the
cardboard in boxy black letters, including "Abolish the Fur Trade,"
"Fur is Murder," "Stop Promoting Vanity and Death," and "Fur is Dead-
Get It In Your Head." Some of the signs displayed graphic photographs
of skinned animal carcasses. In contrast to the dramatic messages they
carried, most of the activists were subdued as they slowly trudged in a
circle.
The inclement weather seemed to dampen their spirits a bit, as for
most of the three hour protest it alternated between drizzle and
half-hearted rain showers. The few passersby seemed intent on getting
through the rain, and quickly walked past while giving the protesters
wide berth. In periods when the precipitation was less intense, the
majority of people passed by with expressions of studied indifference
or disgust and seemed to have a visceral reaction to the bloody,
explicit posters. It is not necessarily bad to show people what you are
against; no one in COK likes to look at those photographs. At the same
time, it's important to try to reach people at a level where your
message can resonate. Using words like "murder" may attract attention,
but it has just as much potential to turn people off. The fur industry
is trying its hardest to paint groups like COK as a radical fringe; one
FICA press release said, "the more bizarre the activists look, the
better we look -- and what they had outside were freaks." COK's choice
of words might just be playing right into the other side's hands.
Environmentalists would appear to be natural allies of animal
rights groups; after all, they both profess concern for the Earth's
varied inhabitants and passionately organize to protect ther-than-human
species. But while animal advocates generally call themselves
environmentalists, the reverse is not true. Jim Motavalli writes that
"environmentalists tend to see the animal movement as hysterical,
shrill and ‘one note.' They're often embarrassed by the lab raids, the
emotional picketing and the high-pitched hyperbole." If the rhetoric of
groups like COK alienates groups with a natural affinity for animal
issues, how can it change the mind of a 55 year old wealthy white woman
who's always loved the look and feel of a fur coat?
Although the White House simply stood silently in response to COK's
sidewalk activities, the scene was quite different when Compassion Over
Killing picketed Miller's Furs in early April. Slightly less people
turned out, but the makeup of the crowd was similar to the one at the
Pennsylvania Avenue protest; many of the faces were the same at both
events. However, a certain contrast was clear; this protest was
targeting a finite business operation, while the White House
demonstration seemed to address the entire United States legal system
as well as foreign policy. COK's call for the release of ALF members
convicted of various felonies had an air of futility about it, as the
activists claimed the right to break all sorts of U.S. laws in the name
of their cause. The Miller's Fur protest was more of an even fight.
This time the activists seemed more powerful, as if they were in reach
of their goal to close down the Bethesda fur salon. Their signs had a
few more incendiary phrases than those at the presidential protest;
"Boycott Murder- Don't Buy Fur" and "Stop the Killers Boycott Miller's"
appeared in addition to those used at the White House protest. The
activists excitedly talked about a recent ALF action; the underground
group had recently spray painted animal right slogans over Miller's
windows and canopy. As they circled the group broke into chants
directed by COK leaders, which seemed to add energy to the protester's
message. Passing cars beeped their horns as their drivers waved in
support, in contrast to the tepid response from the pedestrian traffic
at the protest downtown.
However, with one or two exceptions those who passed by the fur
protest on foot in Bethesda seemed to be just as hostile as those in
D.C. Some speculate that the entire concept of a fur salon picket is
faulty, that COK just angers "people when [they] say, ‘don't buy
fur!'and makes them want to go and do it."
The women that dared to cross Miller's threshold attracted every
protester's attention, as they shouted "Shame! Shame! Shame!" in
unison. As one customer left the store loud voices yelled out, "That's
Disgusting!", "Shame!", "How'd They Get The Blood Out Of Your Coat?"
and other slogans which were drowned out by others' hissing and boos.
The effect was very much like that of an angry mob; tension and
vitriolic energy filled the air. This atmosphere may release pent up
emotion, and discourage people from buying fur in the short term,
although in the long term it runs the risk of damaging the animal
rights cause. A recent survey revealed that an overwhelming majority of
Americans strongly disapprove "of protesting fur coats in a harassing
manner." Animal advocates certainly don't need their tactics compared
to radical pro-life groups that make abortion clinics warzones.
As all the activity unfolded outside their door Miller's Furs taped
a small sign to their window that read "Medical Research Saves Lives."
This seemed off-topic at first glance, but after visiting the FICA web
site and reading other pro-fur literature, it was apparent that the
sign was part of a pattern. The fur industry initially ignored
criticism from animal rights groups and relied on their product's
glamorous image to state their case. As the column inches devoted to
the animal rights movement's allegations of cruelty began to accumulate
and sales began to drop; the industry's strategy shifted. Fur companies
began to try to draw attention away from themselves by pointing out the
most controversial parts of the animal rights agenda to the mainstream
society. Arguably the animal rights issue with the least amount of
public support is medical animal testing. Although this topic divides
the animal rights community, many of the movement's leaders favor total
abolition of any testing on animals. The fur industry is only too happy
to point this out to anyone who'll listen.
Compassion Over Killing and other animal rights groups are actively
trying to change the social "rules" that prevail in this country. While
in the short term they may not be advocating a ban on fur coats, COK's
protests are aimed at making it socially unacceptable to wear fur. This
effort has shown signs of succeeding, as fur sales have fallen almost
50% below their peak volume in 1987. However, they have begun to creep
upwards again in recent quarters. As with every social movement, animal
advocacy groups need to pause and reevaluate their public relations
strategies. Perhaps it's time for organizations like Compassion Over
Killing to cut back on their use of emotionally charged phrases and
tacit endorsement of felonious acts a la ALF. Without considering these
issues, COK runs the risk of marginalizing the group and losing its
battle against fur.
Works Cited
Cowit, Steve. "Hollywood Hypocrites." Fur Age 04/06/97 11:35:32.
Feitelberg, Rosemary. "Surge in Luxe Business, Designer
Participation Bode Well for Fur Week." Women's Wear Daily 14 May 1996:
1+.
"Freak Show Protest Falls on Deaf Ears." Fur Age http://www.furs.com/FUR/FurAge76.html>; 04/06/97 11:41:16.
Fur Information Council of America. "Fur, Your Fashion Choice."
Motavalli, Jim. "Our Agony Over Animals." E Magazine Oct 1995: 28-37.
People For the Ethical Treatment of Animals. "Annual Report." 1994.
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. "The PETA Guide to Animals and the Clothing Trade."
Responsive Management. "Americans' Attitudes Toward Animal Welfare, Animal Rights and Use of Animals."
Riechmann, Deb. "A Harvest of Fox Fur And Anger." Washington Post 5 Jan 1995: M2.
Shapiro, Paul. "An Interview With the Owner of Miller's Furs." The Abolitionist Summer 1996: 3-4.
Shapiro, Paul. Personal Communication. Bethesda, MD. 5 April 1997.
Singer, Peter. Animal Liberation: A New Ethics For Our Treatment of Animals New York: Avon, 1975.
Stern, Jared Paul. "Are You Fur Real?" Fashion Reporter June/July 1996: 5-6.
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